With all
its intricacies, history seems to have been the mortar for
every brick and stone that has built Shimla. As the summer
capital of British India for well over a century it was the
seat of one of the most powerful governments in the world.
From its cedar-shaded heights, one fifth of the human race
was ruled and the decisions made those decades ago affect
our lives to the present day.
The town of Shimla rose in the nineteenth century when the
Gurkha Wars came to an end in 1815-16 and the victorious
British decided to retain certain pockets as military
outposts and sanitaria. In 1822 the most rigorous of dandies
and the greatest of sticklers for form Captain Charles Pratt
Kennedy, Political Agent to the Hill States directed that a
house be built for him at the village whose name is
variously reported as Sheyamalaya Shumlah, Shimlu and
Shemlah. Kennedy House led the vanguard of the hundred-odd
houses that were to scatter themselves by 1841 over every
level or gently inclining space. Lured by the climate and
terrain scores of European invalids began moving to the
station and the only stipulation of the local chief who
owned the land was that no tree be cut or cattle
slaughtered.
In 1864 the Viceroy, John Lawrence anointed Shimla – then
spelt Simla, as the summer capital of British India. With
Lawrence came the Viceroy Council, the Imperial Secretariat,
representatives of the Indian princes and foreign envoys. As
the town grew to become the workshop of the Empire, an awed
visitor observed, every pigeonhole cradled an embryo of a
war or death. Despite the fact that up to the time of Indian
independence in 1947, Shimla officially remained only the
summer capital, yet the Government spent more time in these
hills than at the actual capital Calcutta and later New
Delhi. As the bearer of the Viceregal sceptre this tiny
pocket became the cynosure of British Empire. Imperial
grandeur, and all the panoply and trappings of power came
along for the ride. And there was a popular local saying
that went, “You cannot sleep the nights in Simla for the
sound of grinding axes”. A social whirl of parties,
gymkhanas, balls, fancy fairs and affaires du Coeur ensured
that a heady mixture of scandal and intrigue constantly
wafted through the town.
Quite inevitably the freedom movement had a close connection
with Shimla. Ornithologist and former Civil Servant, Allan
Octavian Hume created the Indian National Congress which
spearheaded the struggle while living in the town. Stalwarts
like Mahatma Gandhi, Pandit Nehru, C. Rajagopalachari,
Pandit Madan Mohan Malviya and Maulana Azad regularly
visited Shimla. Major events that took place in the town
were the Simla Conference in 1942, the deliberations of the
Cabinet on and finally the decision to partition India.
And while the British Empire may have ceased to exist, its
echoes linger on in the architecture and ambience of this
hill resort. The elements of nostalgia may be strong but
Shimla also has a youthful vigour in its pace. Its easy
accessibility and several other attractions have made it one
of India’s most popular hill resorts. There are many
unforgettable walks, day-excursions by the dozen, a variety
of convenient shopping and entertainment museums, and
ice-skating in winter. Shimla is the base or the unwinding
point for numerous exhilarating routes to the state
interior.
Today the town is distinctive for its variety of
architecture. It has one of the rare surviving urban
forests, made all the more unique, for its species are
temperate to alpine ones in what is otherwise a tropical
zone. And then Shimla’s famous Mall offers one of the
longest stretches of pedestrian shopping in the world.
Within and around Shimla, the public and private sector
offer an enormous range of accommodation that range from
modern to heritage hotels. Like satellites placed around the
centre, there are many resorts in Shimla’s periphery that
are full-fledged destinations in their own right. These are
located at Mashobra, Naldehra, Kufri, Shilon Bagh and Chail.
En route by road from Kalka there are Parwanoo, Dharampur
and Kasauli.
Plan Your Sightseeing
If you are fond of walking, Shimla will unfold parts that
remain hidden to vehicles. Combinations by car and then on
foot are possible in several areas. It is suggested that you
take a direction for the day and cover the places of
interest.
The area around the Institute of Advanced Study has several
walks. Combine these with visit to the State Museum and
expand if you will towards Kamna Devi.
Tara Devi and Sankat Mochan can be linked with a short train
ride to Tara Devi station. The Himalayan Queen that leaves
Shimla at 10.15 am is recommended.
Jakhoo can be combined with a stroll and shopping on the
Mall and in Lakkar Bazaar. The Lower Bazaar that runs
parallel to the Mall at a lower level has the flavour of a
typical Indian market place. Trinkets that can be purchased
here include silver jewellery. You can also walk towards
Chotta Shimla and Raj Bhavan the residence of the state
Governor. The recently created rooms of Himachal Darshan
offer a glimpse of the various district in the state. Jakhoo
has several paths that criss-cross the hill a good walk is
along the old Five Benches Road near the microwaves link
tower. The Bharari spur also has many walks that can be done
in a few hours or carried over the day
Special Interest
Nature
Some routes offer a greater variety of Shimla trees, shrubs,
wildflowers and ferns. If you are lucky some bird species
can also be sighted. Some suggested places are:
The Glen, and the narrow forest trail that runs above it and
loops around Summer Hill. The Bharari spur. Towards the
villages of Kamina and Pabo. Trek route down from Kamina to
Tattapani.
Colonial Architecture
Most of Shimla has diverse colonial forms culled from all
over Europe.
English Renaissance: With a castle-like appearance is the
former Viceregal Lodge which is now the Indian Institute of
Advanced Study. This is surrounded by assorted cottages.
English Home Counties Marketplace: The Mall
Neo-Gothic: Gorton Castle now the office of the Accountant
General and formerly the Imperial Civil Secretariat; the
Secretariat of the Himachal Government at Ellerslie; and the
Gaiety Theatre on the Mall
Norman- Baronial: District Courts.
Swiss- Bavarian chalets: The Chalet Day School and Cedar
Lodge (Punjab Government Rest House).
Tudor: The Library on the Ridge and Barnes Court
Churches: Christ Church, St. Andrew and the deconsecrated
churches of St. Andrew’s (now, the Evening College) All
Saints Chapel 9nearthe gates of the Indian Institute of
Advanced Study).
Cemeteries: Adjoining Oakover, the residence of the Chief
Minister of Himachal has the oldest one. The largest
‘old-one’ is below St. Edward’s school and is approached via
the Potato Research Station. The one at Sanjauli also dates
back to colonial times and is still in use.
Others: Yarrows, various schools and college and cottages
all over town.
Shopping
Handicrafts. Shawls and tweeds. Fruit juice and jams. Honey.
Quality woollens. Silver jewellery. Rare books and etchings.
Contemporary pahari miniature paintings. Metalware. Rugs and
carpets. Handmade footwear. Wooden items like walking
sticks.
Planning a Week in the Shimla Sector
A week’s time will give you a healthy sampler of Shimla.
Dividing your time between the town and suburbs is
suggested. You can also divide your stay between the town
and the peripheral region. A good time to do the walks are
the mornings. A visit to the Mall is the ideal plan for the
evenings. When visiting the suburbs plan for most of the
day. In season, an appropriate activity like activity – like
ice-skating can be pursued. Let your hotel or an approved
travel agent help you plan your itinerary – those few
minutes will add a great deal to your stay. |
